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Don’t get stuck on stick
Tips for the beginner
- By Philip Brown
- July 27, 2017
- Article
- Arc Welding
Shielded metal arc welding (SMAW), also known as stick welding, has long been a commonly used process on many job sites for numerous reasons. It is a relatively trouble-free process that is tolerant of surface and environmental challenges associated with other welding processes, and relatively low-cost equipment can mean a smaller investment.
Even as wire processes and newer technologies grow in use thanks to the productivity gains they offer, stick welding remains an important process to know and understand.
Basic welding principles such as travel speed, travel angle, and work angle are critical to success, and you will see significant differences by simply adjusting these parameters. As a result, the basics of stick lay the foundation that will help you become a better welder.
If you are a beginning welder who is struggling with this process, following some simple tips and best practices will help you be successful.
No. 1: Choosing the Right Machine
Having the right machine for the application is the starting point for success. Key factors to consider when choosing a welding power source include the necessary duty cycle and the amperage draw required for the job.
It’s also important to consider the machine’s input power requirement, size, and any portability needs you might have. The available electrical hookup may be 120, 240, or 480 volts, so be sure to select a machine that matches the power available, whether it’s single- or three-phase power.
Consider choosing a multiprocess machine with the capability to perform gas metal arc welding (GMAW) and gas tungsten arc welding (GTAW) in addition to stick. Future applications may call for a variety of welding processes, making a multiprocess machine a cost-effective and space-saving option compared to purchasing several single-process machines. These machines are a great way to give beginners the opportunity to gain experience with more than one process.
No. 2: Selecting Your Electrode
The type of material you are welding plus the needs or requirements of the application will help you determine which electrode to choose. Using an alternating current (AC) machine also limits what type of electrodes can be used most effectively.
When choosing an electrode, first check if the material you are welding has rust, oil, or other surface contamination as some electrodes are better able to handle it than others. Also consider the position of the weld. For example, a vertical-up weld will likely require a different electrode than one performed in the flat position. If an application has code requirements, the specifications may include electrode type.
The most common stick electrodes are:
- 6010. This deep-penetrating electrode is capable of dealing with surface contamination such as rust or oil, though it potentially requires heavy postweld grinding.
- 7014. This easy-welding electrode offers a smooth, stable arc and works best on a clean surface.
- 7018. This low-hydrogen electrode is popular for code work in industrial applications. It requires careful handling and storage to prevent moisture pickup.
Consult a filler metal or welding equipment manufacturer if you have questions about an electrode choice for a specific application.
No. 3: Setting Your Machine
Once you select your electrode, make sure to choose the correct polarity. Choosing the incorrect polarity is a common mistake in machine setup.
The right polarity is typically listed on the electrode packaging or on the material data sheet. Most electrodes come with a material data sheet that specifies the proper polarity, angles, and current ranges.
Setting the current range too high will result in a lot of spatter and a volatile arc. Setting the current too low means you’ll have a hard time initiating and maintaining an arc.
No. 4: Striking an Arc
To properly strike the arc in stick welding, brush or scrape the end of the electrode against the base material.
Some electrode types, such as 7018, form a hard slag shell over the end of the electrode after welding. You must break off this shell to expose the bare electrode for electrical contact before you can restart the arc. To do this, remove the electrode from the holder and tap the slag-covered end against the base material or against the concrete floor. Take care to avoid breaking off too much material, which can overexpose the electrode and make it prone to sticking to the base material.
Once the arc is drawn, it’s typical to hold an arc length from 1⁄8 inch to 1⁄4 in. between the end of the electrode and the workpiece. Proper arc length varies by electrode type, and it is typically specified in an electrode’s material data sheet. The welding position can also impact proper arc length. A vertical-up weld, for example, will traditionally call for a tighter arc to help control the weld puddle.
An electrode that is too close to the workpiece can snuff out the arc by burying it in the molten weld puddle. An electrode that is positioned too far from the workpiece will cause a wide arc, meaning not enough metal will be deposited into the joint, causing a lack of penetration.
You should always drag the arc toward you when stick welding, typically with a 10- to 30-degree drag angle. A push motion will cause heavy slag coverage and an uneven weld.
Mistakes to Avoid
Avoiding some common mistakes can help improve quality and productivity and help save time and consumable costs in stick welding applications. Consider these common errors:
- An arc length that is too long causes a wide, erratic arc, resulting in increased spatter levels that take more time to clean and grind after welding. It also prevents proper penetration and weld fusion.
- Traveling too fast during the weld may mean you are not watching the toes of the weld to see the finished sides. Keep in mind that the right travel speed for your application depends on weld size.
- Changing the travel angle during welding can cause a lack of fusion or penetration within the weld. Make sure to maintain the same travel angle and work angle through the entire weld pass.
Stub Loss and Disposal
Because part of the electrode must always be in the electrode holder, stub loss is a fact of life with stick welding. There’s a fine line between wanting to use as much of the electrode as possible from a cost perspective (since electrodes are purchased by the pound) and taking care to dispose of an electrode once shielding gas coverage is compromised.
Some codes, such as those for 7018 electrodes, require that each electrode have only one arc start. In select operations, any portion of the electrode that is not used in the first arc strike cannot be restarted and used again.
When code specifications are not an issue, most electrodes can typically be struck multiple times. Following the initial start, each arc start has the potential for reduced shielding gas coverage, as the flux may not evenly cover the end of the exposed electrode. Shielding gas for the stick welding process is created by consuming the flux that coats the electrode, and it is critical to have adequate flux covering when restriking electrodes.
Some stick electrodes also have a shelf life once the package is opened and can be used only within a certain time frame. This shelf life is intended to prevent moisture absorption that can cause hydrogen-induced cracking or weld failure. This, again, is dictated by code requirements for certain applications and electrodes.
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The Welder, formerly known as Practical Welding Today, is a showcase of the real people who make the products we use and work with every day. This magazine has served the welding community in North America well for more than 20 years.
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