Contributing Writer
Arc Welding 101: Electrodes and machine settings
Q: I know how to arc weld. I took arc welding classes in high school and was certified in the state of California. Unfortunately, they never taught me about the settings and what electrodes were best for what jobs.
For example, I’m rebuilding a motorcycle and I want to straighten a minor bend in the frame and reinforce it with perhaps some plate steel and a solid weld. What should I set the arc welding machine to, and what size electrode should I use for a solid weld that won’t burn holes through the frame?
Basically, I am in the dark about the electrodes and machine settings. Is there a guide that I can print, or is there some standard advice you can give me? Also, is there a universal electrode and setting that would be good for just about any standard job, such as the one I mentioned, where a solid weld needs to handle a load?
Mark E.
A: Ideally, gas metal arc welding (GMAW) would be great for working on your motorcycle frame because it concentrates the heat. The heat-affected zone (HAZ) is much greater with shielded metal arc welding (SMAW) and much more concentrated with GMAW. On a frame, you want as little heat as possible.
If you can’t gas metal arc weld it, then I would suggest using a small-diameter electrode, such as 0.09375-in. diameter. Electrodes like 6010 or 6011 would be good because of their fast-freezing characteristic. In other words, the weld pool goes from liquid to solid quickly, so it won’t heat it up as much as, for example, a 7018 drag rod would.
The first two numbers (60) mean 60,000 pounds per square inch of tensile strength (the ability to resist being pulled apart). That is plenty for your frame.
Generally, if I’m burning 0.125-in. rods, I use about 120 amps on 7018 and about 85 amps on 6010/6011. Every machine varies, so this is general advice. Also, the thickness and type of metal also play important roles. I’d use 0.09375-in.-dia. 6010 or 6011 rods if your frame is mild steel. They’re easier to control the weld pool with and will generate less heat than 0.125-in.-dia. rods. Try them at around 70 amps and then go up or down as needed.
Charts are available that give manufacturer-recommended settings. I generally don’t even go by the numbers. I set the machine by running a practice bead until I get the weld pool just right. If I get excessive spatter, it’s too hot, especially if it won’t chip off. If your bead is bulky and not tied-in well, it’s too cold. The bead should be smooth and uniform.
About the Author
Marty Rice
High School Career Center in Texas
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